
Celebrating Biba, the brand synonymous with Sixties style | F25025P | 2024-04-01 14:08:01
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Beneath its legendary founder Barbara Hulanicki, Biba rose from a mail-order catalogue to a seven-storey division retailer on Kensington Excessive Road. By no means before had an organization introduced reasonably priced style to the youth market, in a move that got here to inspire the excessive road as we all know it. Hulanicki was a true style revolutionary, creating the first full beauty vary for black pores and skin, and actively supporting the nascent queer group by advertising within the homosexual press, 20 years earlier than corporations comparable to Dolce & Gabbana have been to do the identical.

Displaying the best way through which Biba democratised style, the exhibition starts with a reproduction of the first ever mail-order Biba gown: a shift in pink gingham with a cutout back and matching headband, which shortly turned a bestseller. A yr later, Biba opened its first boutique on Abingdon Street, which turned a centre for London's coolest clientele, together with Twiggy, Mick Jagger, Pattie Boyd, The Beatles, Cher and Anita Pallenberg.


The exhibition charts the rise of Biba and Hulanicki's radical and daring imaginative and prescient via more than 40 outfits — from maxi clothes and hacking jackets to trouser fits and bias-cut satin evening clothes — reflecting influences as numerous as 1930s Hollywood and the Pre-Raphaelite and Art Nouveau actions. These can be displayed alongside a number of Barbara Hulanicki's unseen style illustrations, which show not only the event of the brand and its designs, but Hulanicki's exceptional expertise as a style illustrator.


"Barbara Hulanicki's work as a style illustrator, beginning within the late 1950s, knowledgeable her designs for Biba," says Dennis Nothdruft, head of exhibitions at the museum. "Hulanicki was a extremely profitable business illustrator and in her drawings we will see the development of her personal type from Parisian couture to the Biba look. This reflected the wider cultural shifts in society."
One other part of the exhibition is devoted to the Biba catalogues, which introduced the model to the remainder of the UK. Photographed by Helmut Newton and Sara Moon, the graphics of the catalogues had a particular fashion that made them immediate collectors' gadgets.


By September 1973, Biba had opened its monumental Kensington division retailer, promoting own-brand merchandise packaged in the distinctive Biba type, with flooring dedicated to house furnishings, make-up and accessories, clothing for ladies, males and youngsters, and even a food hall. Every thing was obtainable at 'Huge Biba', from baked beans to wallpaper; there was additionally the famous roof garden (the most important in Europe) and The Rainbow Rooms, a 500-seater restaurant.
The exhibition's upstairs galleries showcase a choice of the life-style merchandise that have been on sale, demonstrating how, in simply 10 years, Biba had transcended its origins as a mail-order enterprise to grow to be the primary way of life emporium: a model that, like all of Hulanicki's innovations, has continued to inspire many years later.
'The Biba Story: 1964 to 1975′& is on till 8 September 2024.
This article originally appeared on Harper's BAZAAR UK.
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The submit Celebrating Biba, the brand synonymous with Sixties style appeared first on Harper's Bazaar Australia.
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